Roncesvalles to Zubiri - 22 km

May 5
Lat: 42.930556 Long: -1.503611

I got up and packed at 6 a.m. and was out of the Albergue by 6:30 a.m.. Generally, they want you to leave by daybreak so at 6 a.m. they turned the lights on and played some music (in this case, the "Wedding March"). I met Hawk and Little Pony at their hotel at 7 a.m. and we were gone by 7:15 a.m.. We couldn't eat until we got to the next village.

We walked 3 kilometers to the little village of Burguete and stopped in at a small shop selling tostadas with ham and cheese. The place was packed with "Pilgrims." Interestingly, this village is the town where Ernest Hemingway stayed when in Spain. He would write and play a piano, which can still be seen bearing his signature from July 25, 1923.

After we ate, we packed and headed on toward our destination for the day. Throughout the day we passed through several small hamlets, Espinal, and Viskarret. Soon after leaving Viskarret, the trail took a change and started to climb for about the next 4.5 kilometers before changing to a steep descent for 3.5 kilometers into Zubiri. This is a nice little town where the people are friendly and there are many places to stay and eat. The population is about 400.

As we walked into town a woman approached us about lodging. She ran a pension, a place where people let you stay in their house or apartment. The Amets Pension was clean and neat, and we got our own private rooms. It costs more than the albergues, but was well worth it. We made reservations for dinner at the Albergue.

Dinner was served at 7:00. This was the best Peregrinos meal yet! They served a fresh green salad and pork ribs with potatoes. Interestingly, we’ve had nothing but fish or pork. If you don't eat fish, you better like pork. It's hard to be a vegetarian here. We had dinner with a couple of Brits from England, who "snowbird" in Florida for six months of the year. They were a lot of fun. So far most of the Pilgrims have been French, Spanish, and Canadian, but there are many others here as well.

More to follow. Buen Camino

Spain Blog 2013

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