Hornillos del Camino to Castrojsriz - 20.2 km

May 21
Lat: 42.287778 Lon: -4.140278

I had a good night’s sleep at the pension and got up at 6:15 a.m. to pack and go down for breakfast. It was a typical breakfast in Spain: toast, jelly and coffee; a pat on the back, and out the door. It was good and a nice way to start the day. I usually will make it to a bar/restaurant about 5 km away and take a break and get something more. The cafe con leche or hot tea is about 1.20 euros and a sweet roll is another 1.20 euros.

The owner of the place that we stayed last night took us back to the trail in Hornillos del Camino where we ended the day before. It was so cold that the van actually had ice on the windshield. We all took off heading for our daily destination. It was so cold in my shorts and a T-shirt that I just took off. After a couple of hours I arrived in the town of Hontanas and stopped at a bar right on the trail. They had the best cafe con leche. They also had great WiFi and I was able to connect to check e-mail. It's appearing more and more that WiFi is in more and more locations. It's in coffee shops, restaurants and especially in albergues and hotels. I’ve been able to Skype just about every night back to the states. (Don't forget the time difference: six hours.) Also, FYI, Hontanas has three albergues.

Walking on the Meseta is really nice because you can see everything in the distance and when you are coming into a town or village you drop down to it. Also the photo opportunities are wonderful. I walked on to a very small area along the trail by the name of San Anton, which has an albergue that I was told opened around May 1, but was closed due to the cold. I pushed on to the town of Castrojeriz, where we are staying tonight.

When you first come into the outskirts of the town, a big sign shows all the services in town. This town isn't that big but is a long narrow town with what looks like two main streets that run parallel. There is a bar/restaurant when you walk up the hill into town and across from the church. Be sure and stop there to get something to eat and a coffee or tea because it’s the last place for a while. I talked to the man running the place and asked if there was a bank in town and he told me that there were three. I don't know if he meant ATMs or banks, but I looked around and found nothing resembling either. A post office is in the Plaza de Mayor, but it's only open from 9:30-10:00 a.m., Monday through Friday. Needless to say, it was closed when I went to get some stamps. I had someone tell me to go up the street to the tobacco shop and that I could buy stamps for my post cards, but they were closed as well. I guess people just don't send much mail.

I found a good little restaurant which has a Peregrino meal for 9.50 euros. It seems like the farther west we get, the better the meals get and the better the wine gets as we well. Tonight's white wine was one of the best yet. The one meal that you can always count on is pork. Generally we always have fish and mostly pork, but rarely chicken. Also, don't look for too many veggies. If you order “ensalada mixta” and don't like tuna, be sure to order “pero no atun” or your salad will be covered with it.

The pork was good again tonight. This was the third day in a row that I've had pork of some description. It's a good thing I like pork. Hopefully tomorrow night I can get “pechuga de pollo” (chicken breast). It's almost always thighs or legs. It kind of makes you wonder what happens to the breasts.

Well it's been a full day and tomorrow is going to be just as full up on the Meseta. More to follow... Buen Camino!

Spain Blog 2013

Go to top