Portomarin to Eirexe - 17.1 km

June 12

I got up at 6 a.m. and packed to leave, then to go and get breakfast. Again it was provided with the cost of the room. The breakfast room opened at 7 a.m. so I wandered down at 6:55 a.m. and they were already open. Hawk and Christine came down and we sat together for a quick cup of coffee and a piece of toast and a glass of really good orange juice (Zomo de Naranja). After that I was out of there. Today was really a short day and easy as well.

I started by backtracking my steps to the trail as after I crossed the bridge to get into the city the trail made a left turn and it followed the river for about 200 feet before it went back up into the woods. It was a pleasant walk uphill. Once the trail reached the summit, it traveled parallel to the road all the way to the village of Gonzar. This is where I got my first of the two stamps (Sellos) for the day. I decided that since I wasn't going to pass but one church and that was just before the place where I would be staying for the night that I might be better off getting my stamp there. Like I said in yesterday's blog getting a stamp in a church might prove a little more difficult than I had planned. Anyway the stamp looks pretty good and if I passed the church and it was open then I'd get my second one there. As it turned out when I got to the church it was not only closed, but it looked like an old cemetery. But at any rate I had one and would be able to get my second when I checked into the Pension Eirexe.

After leaving Gonzar the trail pretty much walked the road for the rest of the day. I came to several more bar/cafes, but none of them proved to be any prettier. I got to the Pension around noon and it was across the road from a nice little bar. I checked in and got to my room only to find no TV or WiFi so it was back to the book for studying my Spanish. It turned out to be a good thing as I sat outside at a table reading and trying to memorize vocabulary when the owner's daughter came walking by and saw me trying to pronounce a word and stopped to tell me how to say it. She came back a little later and went over all the words that I had been working on and helped me to put together phrases and sentences. As it turned out, no Internet was a good thing.

This is a quiet placeā€¦ it's truly in the middle of nowhere. It's all farm and cattle country. Right outside my bedroom there are chickens scratching and in the field to the right of the building there are about six free ranging cows. Around 7 p.m. the farmer that owned the cows came walking up the street with his walking stick and dog. He went into the field and the dog did something causing the cows to turn and walk single file out of the field, down the road to the water trough, and line up. They got water before turning and walking further on down the road and turning up a path to head toward the barn. I guess they had done this a hundred times before, but it was really fun to see. There are some crops in the field farther back from the pension.

Around 6:30 p.m., Hawk, Christine, and myself went across the road and had a Peregrino dinner for 10 euros. It was actually very good. I had a boneless pork chop/loin and other than being fried it was really good. Of course I had the obligatory French fries and the mixed salad (ensalada mixta), and as always a bottle of vino and a basket of fresh bread.

After dinner they went back to their room and I took a short walk about a kilometer away to a little bar/cafe to get an ice cream. All in all it was a perfect way to end a day... Buen Camino!

Spain Blog 2013

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