Day 04 - Roncevalles to Zubiri

Date:  May 8,2015

Location: From: Roncevalles To: Zubiri

Mileage: 21.9 Km

Weather: beautiful blue skies, warm

Temperature: 70s F°

Lodging and Cost: Pension Rio Arga Ibaia, 40€ double, split my cost 20€ GPS

Location: 42.929934° N, -1.503509° W

Highlights: beautiful forest walk along a wooded path

Summary of the Day:

Back at Orisson I had the good fortune to meet a Londoner that was sharing the same room as I. We had several conversations and the next day we both took off early. As the day passed, we crossed paths and continued our conversations. At the albergue in Roncevalles we once again were in the same area. We both mentioned that we were leaving at first light and from there our band was formed. I was planning on stopping at burguete for some breakfast, but we passed the first restaurant to opt for the next one down the street, only to find there wasn’t one down the street. Not to worry... we’d walk another 3.6 Km to the village of Espinal, but when we got there everything was closed. Since everything was closed nearly the whole way to Zubiri, we walked along together and talked all the way in. 

Most of the way was pretty much wooded paths. We had a number of uphill climbs, but none like climbing the Pyrenees; it was still some up hills. I mentioned that I was going to book a night at the pension in Zubiri that I had stayed in two years before and asked if he wanted go there, which he did. We went to the Amets Pension only to be told they were full. When I told them that I stayed there two years ago and that it was wonderful, they said that they would find a nice place for us. After one call they said that the owner was on his way to get us. He walked us to his Pension and showed us a beautiful double room with shower just across the hall. There was a balcony overlooking the river and it was clean and quiet. They washed and dried all of our clothes, folded and even return them to the room, all for 5€. This was a real deal.

We went to the Albergue in town to register for the dinner meal. This was 13€ for a three-course meal. You had a choice of fish or meat, so having fish the night before I opted for the “meat” (I wasn’t sure what kind of meat but it wasn’t fish). It turned out to be pork, which was really good. It’s so much fun to sit and eat with fellow pilgrims walking the same path and discuss your daily travels and what you’ve seen and your hardships. We had a table full: one Canadian, two Austrians, and one Frenchman. The meal was terrific: tossed salad and split pea soup for the first course and then the main course pork steak, and lemon mousse for desert. After dinner we all sat around until they pushed out for the next seating. We needed to get ready for tomorrow anyway.

All in all, today has been a great day. There is nothing better than a good walk, good food, and most importantly good company and conversation. Looking forward to tomorrow. Will post more tomorrow, so until then…Buen Camino!

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