Day 49 - Arcade to Caldas de Reis

Date: June 22, 2015

Location: From: Arcade  To: Caldas de Reis

Mileage: 34.4 km

Weather: Started out with blue skies, but then became a little overcast and the temperatures were on the cooler side.

Temperature: 66° F at 5:30 a.m. but rose to upper 70s° F

Lodging and Cost: Hotel Balneario Davila - 35 €

GPS Location: ’42.603702” N and ’ -8.64039” W

Highlights: Walking through the town of Pontevedra and seeing all the buildings and statues and seeing the ole Roman Bridge in the city.

Summary of the Day: 

I got up at 4:50 a.m. this morning and finished packing to go. I finally left at 5:20. The way marks were great leaving town and was making good time in the dark and then it happened... all the blazes just seemed to stop and needless to say so did I. It's like they just disappeared. I finally had to use the book and just try to follow the poor map in the book. I lost about 30 minutes of forward travel time but then out some distance from town I saw a way mark that was just about completely faded out, but I followed it as I figured that the trail hadn't changed any. I got to thinking about this a little later and came to the conclusion that all the other marks are looking brand new and that they are refreshing all the blazes, and that possibly they sanded some down and then just forgot to go back and repaint them. That's no fun to find out at about six o'clock in the morning, but that might be what happened.

I pushed on and the trail was great after that and there were no cobblestones that have bruised my feet so badly in the past up through Portugal and Southern Spain. It seemed like no time that I was heading into the big city of Pontevedra and I was looking for some place to get breakfast of some kind. I was passing the train station and there on the corner was a nice little Café/Bar. It was just what I was looking for. I went in and it was all a hustle with locals getting café and taking off to work. This city has managed to preserve the past in its designs while at the same time building some new design to reflect the modern industrial city that it has become. I really liked going through this city.

After leaving the big city, the trail went back to a number of smaller, slower agricultural towns, grape vineyards, and farms. The views along these paths are really incredible because not only do you see the fields, you can see the far off mountains. That's the way the trail went for the rest of the morning. It did parallel the big main road and every once in a while it would shift up to it but only for a short period and then drop off the main road and go back to the little country road. It stayed that way all the way to the entrance to the city of Caldas de Reis where it turned back into a bigger city, but still a small town culture.

It was easy to find my hotel as it was right on the trail as I came into town. This was a great place and it had everything that I wanted and needed. I like the fact that it is in the central part of the city so I'm close to everything. After I got cleaned up, I went down and asked the owner about a place to eat some lunch and he recommended three places. I went to one and had a large salad and bread with a glass of wine. Just as I was getting my meal the fellow that I met earlier today, Avis, from Australia came up and started talking. I asked if he would like to join me, which he did. We had a good lunch and suggested that we meet for dinner.  After lunch I went out and walked around town and looked it over.

Avis and I met at 8:00 for dinner at the Regino Restaurant. This was a really good place that the owner of the hotel recommended, but they didn't serve until 8:00 at night. It was a little late for me, but it was a good Pilgrim's meal so I decided to go. It turned out that it was really a great meal and a large portion and all for 8.00 €. By the time we finished eating dinner it was 9:30 p.m. So it was pretty much time to go to bed, because tomorrow I have a 26 km day to position myself for Santiago on Wednesday. I want to get there early so the line for Compostelas will be short. It looks like it’s about a 3-hour walk so I'll be able to get there and take care of business and have the balance of the day to rest before I head out to the coast at Finisterre. And with that it pretty much wrapped up my day so I will go to bed and get rest for another fairly long, mileage-wise day tomorrow. Until then I will bid you a…Buen Camino.

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