Day 20 - Carrión de Los Condes to San Nicolas Del Real Camino

Date:May 16, 2018

Location: From:Carrión de Los CondesTo:San Nicolas Del Real Camino

Mileage:36 Km/22.5 Mi..

Weather:Coolin the morning and warm in the afternoon.

Temperature:Upper 50’s in the morning and upper 60’s in the afternoonF°

Lodging and Cost:AlbergueLaganares 10

GPS Location:42,°21.49” N and 4.°57,’ 16,” W

Highlights:Pretty much the same as all days on the Meseta. Flat,dusty and beautiful views in the distance of the snow covered mountains. Green fields.

Summary of the Day: 

The day started with us leaving the hotel at about 7:30 and as we walked out of town we stopped in a bar and got a café con leche, then we headed on out of town. We were doing really well with our pace and distance covered. It wasn’t a hard trail as it was right along the highway. After about an hour it turned into a path which was fine except for the path was covered with the small rocks, the kind that after about an hour start to destroy the bottoms of your feet and make you have a hard time walking. We had discussed only walking 17.3 Km/14.6 Mi, but said we’d see how we felt when we got to Calzadilla de la Cuevas. When we got there we were doing well so decided to push on for another 9.5 Km/5.9 Mi. To Terradillos de Los Templarios, and that’s where the nightmare started. When we got there we found there was no place to stay, we thought that was ok as  we still felt pretty good and it was only another 3.2 Km/2 Mi., but there was nothing there either and now it was getting late and we were tired and sore but we had to push on for a other 2.8 Km/1,75 Mi So we did. Noel had a phone that worked so he called them to make sure they had two beds, they did…GREAT!, but they refused to hold them longer than maybe 45 minutes. We looked back and thepeople that we saw at each of the other Albergues also looking for beds were not far behind. We knew that we had to pick up our pace or risk losing the beds. This is what really tears your feet up... little rocks at a fast rate of speed. Well long story short we got there first and got the two beds, and when the other people came in,I felt sorry for them, but I was tired and all I wanted to do was get the bed secured and get a shower.

After my shower and setting up my bed I went back down stairs to the bar and got a cerveza con limon, this is a beer with lemon in it. It has very little alcohol content but is very refreshing. As tired as I was I was ready for a full beer. I started talking to the woman that checked me in and ask her why she wouldn’t reserve the two beds considering that we were jus 45 minutes away and were coming? She said that they only have 20 beds and only reserve 10 and after that no beds reserved, this way everybody gets a chance at a bed. After hearing that I thought that it was fair. At any rate this was a great Albergue and the people that ran it were wonderful. It was a mother and a father and the daughter business. They were funny and friendly and they treated everybody very nice. This is the first time that I’ve seen a vegetarian dish on the pilgrims menu, it’s usually a meat eaters delight. It was a veggie hamburger with French fries and a salad. The burger was not in bread. The offered wine and water, which was also different. This was an exceptional place to stay and  even though I was tired and sore I had a good time and a good night’s sleep.

Given the fact that I feel that I way over did my comfort limit I’m glad I got it finished and now tomorrow I’ll be able be a have to a full day ahead of where I would be had I not made it. So I guess that you could say I’ve had a Buen Camino today! 

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